Every time I land in Kathmandu after months (or years) away, it hits me ā not just the smell of dust and incense in the air, the chaos of traffic, or the chatter of familiar languages ā but the cravings. The pure, undiluted craving for the local flavors that shaped my childhood.
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I’ve been living in Europe since I was 19 ā it’s been over a decade now ā but no amount of croissants, wine, or pasta will ever replace the simple joy of biting into a freshly fried Bara in Patan or sipping a cold lassi in Basantapur.
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This is my personal list. These are the things I never miss whenever I go back to Nepal.
šļø āI Just Landed in KTMā ā Localās Food & Drink Hit List
š„¤ DRINKS & SIPS
Lassi (Basantapur style)
A thick, sweet yogurt drink often topped with nuts and raisins. Perfect for a hot day or post-meal refreshment.Nepali Chiya
Milky, spiced black tea thatās as much a social ritual as it is a drink.Chyang
A mildly alcoholic, cloudy rice beer ā smooth and slightly tangy. Popular in Newar and Rai communities.Tongba
A warm fermented millet drink from eastern Nepal, sipped through a bamboo straw. Itās refillable and cozy.Aila
A strong, home-distilled spirit made from rice or millet. Earthy, bold, and full of tradition.Gorkha Beer
A classic local lager ā smooth, refreshing, and widely loved.
š§ SNACKS & STREET EATS
Chatpate
Spicy puffed rice snack tossed with achar, potatoes, green chili, and love. The ultimate street bite.Pani Puri
Crispy, hollow puris filled with tangy, spicy water, potato, and chickpeas ā one is never enough.Titaura
Dried fruit strips coated in tangy, sweet, or spicy masala. Addictive and nostalgic.Chhurpi
Traditional yak cheese ā either rock hard for slow chewing or soft for cooking.Aagan Sweets
Nepali-Indian sweets like barfi, rasbari, and kaju rolls. Always in my return suitcase.Sel Roti
Crispy rice-flour doughnut rings, lightly sweet. Best with tea or yogurt.Gwarmari
Deep-fried puffy bread balls ā Kathmanduās version of a morning doughnut.- Halwa Sari & Jeri Sari –Traditional Nepali sweet snacks made from fried dough soaked in sugar syrup. These sweets hold a special place in my heartāmy dad used to bring them every Saturday morning when there was no school. Those mornings were a delicious start to the weekend and a cherished childhood memory.
š MEALS & MUST-HAVE DISHES
Momo
Find my homemade momo recipe here!Ā
Nepali dumplings filled with meat or vegetables. Served steamed, fried, or dunked in jhol (soup). Always with spicy achar.Thukpa
Warm noodle soup with meat or veggies ā perfect for chilly Kathmandu evenings.Chowmein
Stir-fried noodles with veggies and your choice of meat. Spicy, greasy, and satisfying ā street food at its finest.Chhoila Chiura
Spicy grilled meat (often buff or chicken) with flattened rice and spicy pickles. A Newari must-have.Newari Khaja Set
A traditional spread of chiura, chhoila, aaloo, bhuttan, boiled egg, and pickles. Balanced, flavorful, and cultural.Bara (from Patan)
Find my homemade Bara recipe here!
Savory lentil pancakes ā sometimes plain, sometimes with egg or meat. Best found in local stalls near Mangal Bazaar.Gundruk Sinki Ko Jhol
Tangy fermented leafy green soup, deeply flavorful and packed with gut-healthy benefits.Fermented Achar
Pickles made from fermented veggies or fruits, rich in umami and spice. A little goes a long way.Buff Sekuwa
Spiced and grilled buffalo meat, charred to perfection. A beloved roadside or bhatti dish.
š„ SIDE FAVES
Aloo Sadeko
Boiled potatoes tossed in mustard oil, turmeric, chili, and fenugreek ā served cold and spicy.Bhatmas Sadeko
Roasted soybeans mixed with onion, garlic, chili, and coriander. Crunchy and punchy.Chana Chatpate
Chickpeas with spicy masala, onion, tomato, and lemon. A quick, protein-packed snack.
āļø Why It Matters More Now
Living away from Nepal has made me appreciate these small, delicious pieces of my culture even more. Every bite is a memory ā of family gatherings, street food hunts with friends, and quiet mornings at home.
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Even my husband ā who grew up a world away ā is slowly falling in love with Nepali food and drinks. He now knows the difference between pani puri and chatpate, asks for chyang at Newari feasts, and even dares to sip aila when the aunties offer.
š Back Home, Back to Myself
Returning to Nepal isnāt just a trip ā itās a reunion. With family, with the chaos I love, and with food that feels like a warm hug from my past self.
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If you’re a fellow expat or someone who’s been away from home too long ā you know what I mean. The first stop isn’t always your houseā¦ it’s that one momo place, that tea stall, that old, faithful lassi shop in Basantapur.
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And we wouldnāt have it any other way.
If youāre planning your next trip home or to Nepal for the first time, check out my Nepal Travel Tips for travel guides and cultural insights. Want to learn more about traditional fermentation? Read this scientific article on fermented foods.